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| BACKSPLASH
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS |
| INSTRUCTIONS |
PUT
UP A BACKSPLASH
For a simple, subtle, cost-effective alternative to tile, try
pressed tin
By Larry F. Williams
Replacing the brown-and-gold wall tile in the original kitchen with a
light-colored backsplash contributed significantly to lightening and
updating the room, and because we used pressed tin rather than the usual
ceramic tile, the backsplash is also an interesting decorating element.
We ordered the tin (normally used on ceilings) by mail from Chelsea
Decorative Metal Co. It comes in 2ft x 4ft. sheets in a variety of
patterns. We chose a pattern with a 6in x 6in. squares.
The first step is to cut the tin to size (photos 1-3).
Apply construction adhesive (photo 4); then position the tin
on the wall (photo 5). We decided to butt the
factory-finished edge against the countertop so the cut edge would be
hidden by the underside of the cabinets. If you like, you could cover the
edges with small moldings. When you have the sheet in position, nail it in
place (photo 6); then use a nail set to drive the heads
flush with the tin (photo 7). Your pattern will dictate
where the tin stops on the wall when there is no upper cabinet.
In photo 7 you can see how the tin extends beyond the upper
cabinet (to the edge of the countertop). If we had cut the tin to the same
height as the part that's underneath the cabinet, we would have had to cut
through a square, leaving an ugly edge at the top. Instead, we followed
the pattern, cutting the tin at the top of the square so the edge would be
smooth and natural looking.
For the best results, follow the pattern wherever possible, and position
the sheets so the cut edges are hidden in corners.
After we fastened all the tin in place, we wiped it down with a paint
thinner in case there was any oil on it; then we let the thinner dry and
applied oil-based primer (Kilz) with a roller and paintbrush. When the
primer was dry, we sanded it, wiped off the dust and applied two coats of
a semigloss oil-based enamel, again using a roller and paintbrush. Before
applying the second coat of paint, we caulked all exposed edges, including
where the tin abut the countertop, with a paintable latex caulk and then
painted over it. |
Completed Example |
1. Using a long straightedge and a felt-tip pen, measure and
mark the height and length of the pieces and any cutouts for electrical
boxes, etc. |
2. Cut the sheets to size using tin snips. Be careful to
make straight cuts. The tin is sharp — you may want to wear gloves! |
3. Carefully make all of the necessary cutouts. |
4. Apply construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails to the
back of the tin. |
5. The installer positioned the tin so one row of squares
overlapped for a practically invisible seam. |
6. A pneumatic pin nailer makes quick work of fastening the tin to
the wall. |
7. Use a nail set so the nail heads will be invisible when
painted. |
Completed Example |
| PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMI JOHNSON |
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