Tin Ceiling Installation

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TIN CEILING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

TOOLS & SUPPLIES:

Hammer
1" Common Nails with Head
Tin Snips
Chalk Line

Tape Measure
Gloves
Note: Caution Should be Used.
Metal Edges are Very Sharp

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Using sawhorses and heavy planking, erect scaffolding in the room.

2. To begin, nail furring strips to the ceiling around the perimeter of the room. Distance from the wall depends on size of cornice.

2. To begin, nail furring strips to the ceiling around the perimeter of the room. Distance from the wall depends on size of cornice.

3. Locate the center of the ceiling, strike a chalk line perpendicular to the ceiling beams. This insures that the furring will be nailed into the beams. Working out from this line, snap chalk lines at 12-inch intervals. Place the edge of the furring strip along each line and areas by inserting shims between the furring strips and the ceiling. If ceiling is level, we find that plywooding the whole ceiling is not only easier but lowers the ceiling less (3/8” or 1/2” is fine).

4. Snap a chalk line on the center of the furring strip in the center of the room. (overlap sheets towards the door, underlap sheets moving away from the door; this is so the seam faces the back.) Align the edge of the sheet with the chalk line and attach the sheet using 1-inch common nail at 6-inch intervals where they overlap and 1-foot intervals down the center. Angle the nails for greater strength and drive them in beside the nipples on the metal sheet; the nipples will be reserved for nailing the seam of the overlapping sheet. The installer should support the metal sheets with furring strip; just to help hold it up while nailing.

4 & 5. Snap a chalk line on the center of the furring strip in the center of the room. (overlap sheets towards the door, underlap sheets moving away from the door; this is so the seam faces the back.) Align the edge of the sheet with the chalk line and attach the sheet using 1-inch common nail at 6-inch intervals where they overlap and 1-foot intervals down the center. Angle the nails for greater strength and drive them in beside the nipples on the metal sheet; the nipples will be reserved for nailing the seam of the overlapping sheet. The installer should support the metal sheets with furring strip; just to help hold it up while nailing.

5. Snap a chalk line on the center of the furring strip in the center of the room. (overlap sheets towards the door, underlap sheets moving away from the door; this is so the seam faces the back.) Align the edge of the sheet with the chalk line and attach the sheet using 1-inch common nail at 6-inch intervals where they overlap and 1-foot intervals down the center. Angle the nails for greater strength and drive them in beside the nipples on the metal sheet; the nipples will be reserved for nailing the seam of the overlapping sheet. The installer should support the metal sheets with furring strip; just to help hold it up while nailing.

6. Insert cross strips where the sheets overlap to support the seams (not necessary if you installed plywood.)

7 & 8. Use metal shears to cut irregular-shaped pieces and holes for light fixtures.

7. Use metal shears to cut irregular-shaped pieces and holes for light fixtures.

7. Use metal shears to cut irregular-shaped pieces and holes for light fixtures.

8. Use metal shears to cut irregular-shaped pieces and holes for light fixtures.

9. Position the trimmed sheets with the cut side next to the wall, where it will be hidden by the cornices.

10. Seal all seams by tapping with the head of a wide-angled chisel.

9. Position the trimmed sheets with the cut side next to the wall, where it will be hidden by the cornices. 10. Seal all seams by tapping with the head of a wide-angled chisel.

11. Nail the cornices to the furring strips at 12-inch intervals along the bottom edge and 6-inch intervals along the top edge. Join the cornices with miter joints, nicking the edges at regular intervals and bending them back to make a tighter seam. Close the seams by tapping with the head of a nail.

12. Paint the finished ceiling with an oil base paint (water-base paint rusts the metal.) “Liquid Solder is a good way to close any gaps when joining the corners with the cornice.

11. Nail the cornices to the furring strips at 12-inch intervals along the bottom edge and 6-inch intervals along the top edge. Join the cornices with miter joints, nicking the edges at regular intervals and bending them back to make a tighter seam. Close the seams by tapping with the head of a nail. 12. Paint the finished ceiling with an oil base paint (water-base paint rusts the metal.) “Liquid Solder is a good way to close any gaps when joining the corners with the cornice.

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